A Guide to Platform Bed Plans

Do you want to try your hand at building a platform bed? For those of you who don't yet know what a platform bed is, it's an exciting, old way of sleeping that incorporates a simple, elegant frame and a single mattress. Its lines have been used in Europe, Scandinavia, and Japan for hundreds, if not thousands of years. Platform beds can be made of wood or metal. If you're looking to build a platform bed, you're probably reasoning about wood.

Platform beds can be extremely simple. The extremely straightforward platform beds have no headboard or footboard, and indeed no canopy. They couple slats, which, in effect, replace the need for a box spring, since, because they are sturdy yet somehow slightly flexible, retain the single mattress on top. The corollary is that you get a good night's sleep, are very comfortable, and yet don't end up with back pains or numb muscles in the morning.

It's ever best for your back than sleeping on the floor. And now, with the rapid proliferation of memory foam, your platform bed can be even more comfortable and healthy. Memory foam is a gel-like polymer that accepts your shapes and bones, but supports it fully. (It was first used in hospitals, and is now a favorite mattress and pillow material.)

Platform bed plans can be more complex too; you can add headboards, footboards, canopies, even extra flourishes and warehouse units. You can build the warehouse units as one with the bed frame, or you can generate rolling drawers supported by castors, so that the drawers are modifiable and indeed maneuverable throughout your bedroom.

It's not the most difficult job in the world for a handyperson. If you want to build a platform bed, you can order platform bed plans from any of a number of plans retailers. Woodworking clubs, furniture enthusiast groups, and other organizations can give or sell you plans. You can also buy plans online.

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Used Wood Stoves

Common though they might seem, many wooden stoves have a great history behind their creation and usage. Many aged pieces from the past are ready for sale today in distinct aged shops and on the Internet. A wooden stove is made of metal or iron and is fuelled by whether charcoal or wood.

The Europeans where the first to create a stove in the early 18th century. It was created to make cooking more convenient so that people did not have to bend over open fires. The wood stove did away with the dangers and inefficiencies of the open fire. Its main objective was enclosing the open fire so that it did not follow in the wastage of power and hence could supply more heating efficiency.

Today, the design of excellent wood stoves has approximately come to be a thing of the past. Contemporary technology has made many new inventions for great heating and cooking such as microwave ovens and gas stoves. Besides, wood stoves also have other drawbacks such as emission of risky smoke that is generated with the burning of wood and could prove detrimental to the user's health.

Used wood stoves are ready in local aged markets, second-hand goods market and on the Internet. Most of the used wood stoves are any decades old, when they were used extensively. Many of these were sidetracked with the arrival of newer and more advanced technology. While some of these wood stoves unmistakably have historical significance, others are just disposed by users who invested in newer options. Such market can be bought at a business agreement price, often costing just a few dollars. However, aged stoves maybe much more expensive due to their history and intricate designs.

It is always advisable to check a few market to find the perfect used wood stove. It will also give an idea of the prevailing market prices so that an excess amount is not paid for the used product. The usability and authenticity of the wood stove must be checked before making the purchase.

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facts About Engineered Wood Siding

This is a very fascinating narrative which talks about Engineered Wood Sidings, a much good alternative to Wood Sidings. Its made of wood, but is not wood. Sounds interesting? Read on!

Engineered wood siding is the robust and durable exchange to natural wood and other siding materials. General wood siding is very costly but it is less durable. Vinyl is inexpensive, but looks fake. Engineered wood siding is the exquisite mix of both. It is relatively inexpensive when compared to wood siding but it looks just as real, because it is made of real wood. Real wood is made into smaller pieces or powder. This is then treated with anti fungal agents and glue together to give a real looking, stronger, cheaper and more durable engineered wood siding.

Whether it's called SmartSide, Catawba, or TruWood, engineered wood siding products all claim to have a technological edge over their real-wood counterparts. These products are engineered to eliminate flaws, resist deterioration, and be cost efficient to install and maintain. Lp's engineered SmartSide line of siding and trim is made up of wood strands that are coated with a resin binder and compressed to create a board of classic strength. Each SmartSide piece is also treated using Lp's SmartGuard zinc-borate rehabilitation principles to safe against termites and rot.

Engineered Wood Siding: In demand

The boards are coated with a moisture-resistant overlay that is embossed with a cedar-grain pattern for an authentic appearance. "The process of treating each wood wafer with zinc borate, using a heavy-duty face glue, and pressing the product under heat and pressure, results in one solid piece of wood," says Ben Skoog, Brand employer for Lp's SmartSide. Both Lp's SmartSide and Collins Products' TruWood siding are sold in longer 16-foot boards for fewer seams and less waste.

Benefits of Engineered Wood Siding

Engineered wood siding is easier and less high-priced to install than real wood siding. It is lighter in weight than wood and features advances that make installation easier, like Lp's SmartLock self-aligning edge design. Engineered wood siding can be purchased pre-primed, ready to paint, or pre-finished in any estimate of desist options, which reduces the field and labor time once installed.

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Truwood® Siding

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This company specializes in the form of no frills, engineered wood siding products. They don't have any deformities or holes in them. They are built to withstand the test of time and climate

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The engineered wood siding products of this company is light weight, as a matter of fact penetrable by nails, but is very strong. Paints and varnishes can stick to it very nicely, giving rise to a very consistent layer of coating on the engineered wood siding.

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What's the Best Flooring If You Have Pets?

It's a inquire many consumers ask. The answers you may find on the web will range across the full spectrum of flooring options. When considering what the best flooring options are with pets, you have to think both scratches and moisture (because of pet accidents and spills). There are several good options to think if you have indoor pets, including large dogs.

In my opinion, the best thorough choices for floors if you have pets are luxury vinyl tiles or planks. The newer products ready indubitably do a good job of simulating the natural look of tile and wood. With registered embossing (you can both see and feel the wood grains and characteristics of slate, stone, tile etc) these look great. These have several advantages over other flooring types. One benefit is the durability. It is very hard to scratch or scuff luxury vinyl tiles and planks. They collate very well to laminate and real tile when it comes to scratches. These are also inherently water proof so pet urine doesn't cause any issues with the building of the products material. Also, they will not absorb the smells left behind from pet odors and accidents. When it comes to floors for pets, luxury vinyl meets all the criteria needed for a perfect floor. Some major manufacturers of luxury vinyl tiles and planks are Karndean, Nafco, Earthwerks, and Konnecto.

Another solid choice is natural tile. Either it is ceramic, slate, stone or marble, these natural tiles are very hard to scratch. Ceramic and other naturals can be very hard to stain if the sealant is properly applied and in good condition. If the sealing is not up to par, you can get some staining and odors could be absorbed into the tile however. Minor water bowl spills shouldn't affect natural tile flooring at all. Not only does natural tile hold up well overall, it looks great and adds value to your home. These reasons make it other good choice for flooring if you have pets.

A third choice would be traditional, resilient vinyl flooring. It holds up adequately for scratches if you go with a higher end product. The lower end vinyl ranges may show scratches over time however. Most roll good vinyl materials will do well with most stains. The drawback to traditional vinyl is the look itself. Many consumers just don't like the look. Functionally it should be fine, but it is your kitchen, bathroom, living room etc so you best like the look of the floor.

Laminate floors have been long promoted as a good choice if you have large pets, such as dogs. When it comes to a pet's feet and nails, laminate will do great for scratches. Laminate is pretty tough stuff on the surface. The diminutive drawback on laminate is any moisture or water left standing on it can creep into the joints and cause major issues. Laminate floors hate water period. Even if you buy the high end products, water is a killer. A few months of Fido peeing on the floor will more than likely cause buckling issues at the joints.

When it comes to hardwood floors, I indubitably encourage consumers to stay away if you have large pets. It indubitably doesn't matter if the floor is a factory prefinished or convention in home finished (unfinished). Even the superior factory finishes with aluminum oxide can scratch over time. Sure you can have the floors refinished every few years, but that is a major price and hassle to boot. Unless you're willing to go through the pain and money to have floors refinished every so often I would stay away from hardwood floors if you have large dogs or other pets.

Carpet is in a similar kind as hardwood but for a dissimilar reason. As long as you don't have a loop stock like a Berber (nails can hang on the loops and cause damage to the carpet), the carpeting itself will hold up to the traffic. Unfortunately, carpeting is indubitably stained and will hold odors, even with pro cleaning. carpeting and pet accidents are a compound that doesn't have a distinct outcome.

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How to change a Wood Or Gas Fireplace to an galvanic Fireplace

Converting an existing wood or gas fireplace to a clean and vigor productive electric fireplace is uncomplicated and easy. You don't need the skills of a mason, a cabinetmaker, or an electrician to enjoy the relieve and ambiance provided by an electricity powered fireplace. These units are delivered to your door ready to be installed and enjoyed for many years to come. If you can open a box and plug in an electrical cord, you have all the skills you will need to convert a wood or gas fireplace to an electric fireplace.

Many people are afraid to try new ideas, plainly because they are new. The uncertainties that come with trying to install something yourself can be intimidating. Installing an electricity powered fireplace in your apartment, condo, or home is as uncomplicated as plugging in a blender or a coffeemaker. At the same time, you will enjoy clean, inexpensive, supplemental heat for your home while enjoying all of the ambiance of a real fire.

Eliminate the Mess and Worry of a Wood Fireplace

Certainly, wood fireplaces have their appeal. The smell of a wood fire, the crackling burn of logs on a grate, and the sight of smoke rising from the chimney are all big attractions. At the same time, your wood fireplace can be pretty demanding. Cords of wood must be purchased, stored, and brought into the home. Very often, this means spiders, earwigs, and termites are also brought into your home. If the wood gets wet, you must go without a fire until it dries.

Once you have enjoyed your fire, the ashes must be collected and disposed of without causing a fire risk to your home or the neighborhood. Also, in this day of environmental awareness and responsibility, the smoke and other emissions must be considered. Creosote, which can build up in your chimney, must be removed by a expert to avoid the risk of fire and carbon monoxide poisoning. Once the winter has passed, your wood fireplace will go unused for most of the year.

Gas Fireplaces are Not without Risks

Gas fireplaces provide a greater portion of convenience than wood fireplaces, but they also carry their own risks. Gas fireplace pilot lights must be maintained and there are all the time concerns about gas leaks and venting problems. These maintenance requirements question the use of a skilled expert to ensure your safety, adding extra cost to your gas fireplace.

Gas fireplaces generally cost 17 to 24 cents per hour to operate, whereas electric fireplaces provide realistic finding flames for about 3 cents per hour and flames with heat for nearby 8 to 12 cents an hour. Over time, one of these fireplaces can pay for itself while providing you with years of realistic finding flames, convenience, and comfortable heat.

These Inserts are Easy to Install

Electric fireplace inserts are actually installed in existing wood or gas fireplaces without any sort of renovation. You do not need a contractor or any other assistance. When your electric unit arrives, you plainly open the box, place it in your existing fireplace opening, and plug it in. It has no maintenance requirements and you have the added convenience of being able to start your fireplace from the relieve of your easy chair with a remote.

The flame technology used in these fireplaces provides you with all of the ambiance of a real fire without any of the mess, inconvenience, or risks. Your electricity powered fireplace can provide supplemental heat for up to 400 square feet with 4700 Btus per hour, allowing you to lower your thermostat and your heating bill. electric fireplace logs and ember beds provide an thoughprovoking ambiance and you can control your electric unit with or without heat.

The Flexibility of Fire with or without Heat

Unlike wood and gas fireplaces, you can enjoy sitting in front of your electric fireplace logs at any time of the year. These fireplaces allow you to control the flame and heat independently of each other for year round enjoyment. You can use the flame alone if you want the ambiance of a fire without the heat, even in the middle of summer. Obviously, this is not possible with wood or gas.

Fireplaces serve as a splendid gathering place, providing warmth and other comforts to family, friends, and visitors. Your realistic finding electric fireplace logs and ember bed will provide you with all things good about a fireplace without any of the negatives. Your fireplace can be installed in a matter of minutes and turned on with the push of a button. You get the best of both worlds with an electric fireplace and a lower cost. Once you gawk the ease, convenience, and ambiance that this type of fireplace provides, you may very well determine to spend in a freestanding fireplace for some other part of your home. Furniture capability Amish fireplaces, contemporary angle units, and every style in between are available for your relieve and enjoyment.

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Cheap Victorinox Honing Steel 14-Inch Round Fine Cut, Dark Wood Handle

Victorinox Honing Steel 14-Inch Round Fine Cut, Dark Wood Handle Features

• Hand guard to protect hand while sharpening

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Buy Dirt Devil SD20000RED Versa Power All-in-One Stick Vacuum Cleaner

Dirt Devil SD20000RED Versa Power All-in-One Stick Vacuum Cleaner Features

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• Measures approximately 7 by 11 by 45 inches

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How to mend Your Lazyboy Recliner

Lazyboy recliners have a worldwide reputation for comfort, style, endurance and quality. However, as in all furniture, daily use (and misuse) can wear your favorite, overused chair out. Even if you swore by taking care and maintaining your Lazyboy, time will come when your recliner will need expert mend and maintenance.

When your Lazyboy recliner starts to fail you, it is very leading that you at once attend to it and have it checked as soon as possible. Just leaving it as is, and assuming that it will not worsen, can lead your chair prone to more damage. As you know, more damage means more mend costs.

When this happens, how do you get your Lazyboy recliner repaired? Below are some beneficial tips.

Check the warranty coverage.
If you have just recently bought your Lazyboy brand new, your recliner may still be entitled to a warranty. Most Lazyboy recliners have microscopic lifetime warranty on many mechanisms and sure parts, while most other parts are covered for at least a year for mend and service. If your recliner acts up and it is not your fault, you can have it repaired for free under the warranty conditions. Bear in mind though that this warranty is not covered if your recliner was damaged due to improper handling, and if it shows signs of abnormal use such as inordinate soiling. Moreover, the warranty does not pay for freight charges for transport and handling.

Consult with your dealer.
If your warranty coverage is expired, your next choice is to caress your dealer or the furniture shop where you bought your Lazyboy recliner from. If you have bought your recliner from a dependable authorized Lazyboy dealer, they should be able to assist you with your mend needs. They will admittedly have the caress in recliner mend and would know what to suggest. They might even have in house mend staff that can do the repairs for you. If your former dealer is inaccessible, you can check for colse to authorized dealers. You can check out the Lazyboy website for a list of local dealers in your area.

Contact your local repairman.
If your warranty has expired, or if the repairs to be done are not covered by the warranty, you will shoulder all the mend costs. mend costs are generally heavy on the pocket, so you might find it more affordable to ask the help of your local repairman. Find a repairman who already had caress in repairing recliners. Should the mend need spare parts, your local repairman should be able to assist you in looking them. Ask colse to for recommendations for a good repairman in your area.

Check your manual.
There are simple Lazyboy problems that you can fix yourself, and they are all listed in the manual that came with your purchase. The manual also gives you tips and suggestions for taking care of your Lazyboy recliner. But, never try to do it yourself if the repairs needs expert handling to do. A recliner is not a wooden chair so unless you know its intricate details, ask for the help of man who does.

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Attaching Wood To Concrete

A very prominent tip is to use the right tool for each method. When you're dealing with concrete and masonry, you're obviously dealing with highly hard material. Woodworking hammers are too light and steel drill bits too soft. The concrete is also brittle. Hard sharp chips are likely to fly out as you work on it, so all the time wear protection goggles to protect your eyes.

Nails. Nailing wood directly to concrete is probably the simplest, quickest and cheapest method. Unfortunately, once driven, these nails may jar loose from a few hammer blows to the side of the board. So, they are good for temporary fastening.

You'll commonly find two types of special nails at the hardware store, cut nails and hardened concrete nails. Drive nails with a 2- to 4-lb. Hammer. Actually, it's very hard to drive nails into cured (hardened) concrete, even with a 4-lb. Hammer. They work best in concrete that's only cured for a few days.

Nails can be quite productive in mortar joints, however. Mortar is softer than either the concrete block or brick, and it holds nails fairly well. For best results, drive them right along the joint edge. And here's a professional tip: for improved keeping power, run a bead of glue along the backside of your wood before nailing it up.

Predrilled Fasteners. There is a house of fasteners that can be driven into a predrilled hole. These not only fasten wood to concrete, but will fasten just about anything else to concrete as well.

They setup easily, plainly drill through the wood and into the concrete and drive the fastener.

Drilling the hole is the only difficult part. Use a carbide tip bit. Because these holes are relatively small, your approved 1/4-inch or 3/8 inch power drill can do an enough job, although each hole may take some minutes to bore. A hammer drill, however, will drill your hole in a matter of seconds. A hammer drill is expensive, but they can be rented. If you have a lot of holes to drill, they'll save a lot of time.

It's a good idea to glue your wood to the concrete or masonry with this theory as well, especially when using screws. Once screws are jarred loose, they may not retighten.

Expansion Fasteners. These fasteners are simple, productive and can carry a heavy load. They may be retightened should they be jarred loose.

Because they wish a larger hole, you nothing else but need a hammer drill to bore the concrete. If you can't buy, borrow or rent one, try boring a 1/8 inch hole first with a carbide bit. Then use progressively larger carbide bits until you reach the proper size.

Buy these fasteners long enough to wedge into the concrete as deep as the wood is thick. Drill your hole an extra 1/4 inch deep, since the bolt draws back slightly when tightened.

Power Fasteners. These are highly fast, noteworthy and dangerous. They are primarily professional tools which any untrained homeowner should steer clear of until they fully understanding the protection precautions. With power fasteners you can quickly nail into just about any concrete or masonry surface. Both the air and the power-actuated systems drive hardened nails through the wood and solidly into the concrete in one shot. Flying metal, wood or concrete are distinct hazards, so eye protection is essential.

Glue. Over the past ten years building adhesives have improved and become more specialized. You can securely glue just about anything to a wall now. Since glued wood must be held tightly in place until the glue sets, it's handy to use an adhesive with an additional one fastening theory for mutual reinforcement; the glue dampens the vibration and jarring that may weaken the fasteners, and the fasteners hold the wood tightly until the glue sets.

Proper preparation ensures a good glue bond. Be sure the wood and the concrete surfaces are clean and dry. Loose paint, face chalking or moisture will cause the bond to release. When working with a very rough surface, apply a compassionate bead to bridge the wider gaps between the wood and concrete.

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Hot Deals Eureka Lightweight Easy Clean Upright Vacuum Cleaner, 166DX

Eureka Lightweight Easy Clean Upright Vacuum Cleaner, 166DX Specification

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Build Your Own Dry Washer And Dig For Desert Gold

A dry washer is a piece of tool that is used to detach gold from sand with pulsations of air arrival up straight through a porous cloth medium. This allows the gold to decide downward and get caught. It is the gold prospecting tool of option in dry desert areas. The vibrations and flow of air replace the function of water in the normal sluice, allowing the gold to decide downward. Screened gravel passes down an inclined riffle box with cross riffles. The bottom of the box consists of a thin, light weave canvas or some other fabric straight through which thoughprovoking air passes upward.

There is request that dry washers are a type of gold prospecting tool that you just have to have if you're working in the desert, but the prices are well high. In addition, at least for the bellows type dry washer, they are not that hard to make. It well has only been in the last 40 years that you could buy pre-made dry washers quite easily. For a hundred years before that commonly most dry washers were home made affairs designed and built in the gold prospector himself. If you'd like to be a part of that great tradition of prospectors, read on.

First, the bulk of what homemade dry washers are made of is wood, so appropriate home wood working tools are adequate for all but the riffle tray. I prepared some normal plans for an mean puffer type homemade dry washer, and they can be seen on my website (see below). You can adopt and use these plans, or use them as a beginning point and build your own dry washer. To build one, you need to think about how you will build your particular unit, and what build ideas you want to use on your own homemade dry washer. There are also commercial units on the market, and it can be helpful to take a look at them when mental about your own design.

The first build conception you need to think about is the air source. Do you want to build a bellows puffer, or a powered blower type of unit. Both work well, but the puffer type is simply easier to build. Because of this, I propose a Puffer type dry washer if this is the first one you are building. Remember that dry washers are built such that you could all the time modify it in the time to come to switch from a Puffer type to a blower type if that's what you ultimately decide you well want to do.
No mater your design, you will need the following building materials: wood, metal, cloth, screws, screen. I propose 3/8 inch weave for the material screen - half inch would probably be Ok, but I propose 3/8 inch as best. Too large a size and those larger rocks will help push gold out of your sluice, and if too small and you may loose a nice nugget if you dig one up.

You will need appropriate working tools. See my web page about obtaining the tools you will need. I have done up a page on hand tools for this type of project, you can check it out on my website.
My best recommendation if you want to start fabricating mining tool (and keep the stuff you have in good repair) is to purchase a small welder. In fact, I so strongly propose that you consider buying one of these welders that I have done up a whole web page on it. If you are seriously considering building your own dry washer, you check it out on my web page.

A dry washer consists basically of two connected boxes, and upper box and a lower one. The upper box is well just a hopper you can feed gravel into. The material too large for the screen falls off the screen as "oversize". The exact dimensions of the upper box are not that critical, but you don't want it to be too big or too small. The lower box contains the bellows or blower as well as the riffle set up.
You shovel onto the screen until the upper box is full, then with a puffer type, you step to an upwind location and pull the cord to make the bellows puff. The material then works its way down straight through the hopper, and over the sluice riffles. When the hopper is empty, you start shoveling again until it's full.
Make sure the screen you purchase for the upper box is durable and that on the hopper it is well supported from underneath. If you toss too many big rocks onto a poorly supported screen it will simply bend and break. That is something that can be fixed, but when you are out in the field, it can be very inconvenient. A concentrate quarter inch diameter steel rods can be very helpful withhold for the screen.

The gold catching riffles in the lower box of a dry washer are dissimilar than those on a water sluice. The build on a water sluice box is that the gold is retained downstream of the riffle. On a dry washer, the gold is designed to be held on the upstream side of the riffle. The riffle tray is one of the things that well need to be put together by welding. I suppose small bolts would be a possibility, but welding would be much superior. Welding up the detachable tray does not take that much work. On the underside of the riffles is a light weave muslin cloth that allows the air to pass upward straight through it. The riffles need to be a transported tray, so that periodically (usually every hour or two of run time) the riffles and the concentrates can be removed and put in a bucket for later processing. In addition, with the puffer type, dust gets sucked into this lower air box and it needs to be cleaned out from time to time. Check out the welding page noted above for more details.

On the underside of the lower box is where the air comes in. If you use a blower, this is where the duct enters. If you are development a puffer / bellows type dry washer, this is where the bellows will go. Good heavy canvas makes a good bellows. Material that has been rubberized or made waterproof is best. You also need a flapper so that air can go in and go out only straight through the riffles. The one way flow flapper is commonly just a piece of 1/8 inch rubber exterior a hole about 4 inches in diameter. The bellows are hinged on one side and a pull cord is attached to the end opposite the hinge. Pulling on the cord puffs the air straight through the riffle cloth. See the photos on my website for further detail. Its helpful if the withhold legs on the lower blocks are adjustable in some way, as the ground exterior in the gold fields is often very uneven.

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Buy Euroflex Monster Steam-Jet-II 1200w Disinfecting Floor Steam Cleaner With Carpet Glide And 4 Bonus Microfiber Pads (6 Total)

Euroflex Monster Steam-Jet-II 1200w Disinfecting Floor Steam Cleaner With Carpet Glide And 4 Bonus Microfiber Pads (6 Total) Features

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• Ready in 3 minutes, Includes 7 Microfiber pads (6 hard floor & 1 Carpets), Measuring Cup, Carpet Sledge
• Clean Blast: kills up to 99.9% of H1N1, HepC, MRSA, Staph, E-coli, and more

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Save 26% On Eureka Enviro Hard-Surface Floor Steamer,313A

Eureka Enviro Hard-Surface Floor Steamer,313A Specification

• Hard-surface floor steamer cleans and sanitizes without the use of chemicals
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• Measures 7 by 12-1/2 by 49 inches; 1-year limited warranty

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